Its finished! I’m really happy with it. the forged carbon inlay is ever so subtle, but up close it shimmers like a hologram.
I’ll make a billet 8 bolt hub for it tomorrow.
1962 Ferrari 156 replica
Building a Ferrari F1 car from scratch.
The car will be as flawless to the look and body spec sizes as the originals that no longer exist.
Frame – tubular space frame
Engine – Hayabusa 1300cc (180hp)
Drivetrain – ?
Body – carbon fiber
Suspension – ?
#46 - Nardi wheel – from scratch (24 photos)
Ferrari 156 sharknose replica build…
When you cant afford a proper Nardi wheel, you have to make one from scratch. I’ve never done this before, but here is how I’m doing it on a whim with basic tools and years of woodworking experience.
EDIT** The aluminum is .188 thick 5052 grade.
The aluminum center spoke shape is laid out all from a center point. Corner radius’s are cut with hole saws and then cleaned up with a die grinder. Then I rough cut it out with a band saw and a jig saw. I set up a router with a radius jig and a straight bit and fine cut the outer ring to a perfect circle from that all important center point.
I used a straight bit with a top bearing, and a straight edge to router and fine cut the spokes.
For the wood I’ve wrapped mahogany veneer around a jig/form that I routed out using my radius router jig. I’m using a polyurethane glue. This is insanely messy and takes a second pair of hands.
I made 2 of these mahogany rings.
(If I did it again, I would use wood edge-banding from a continuous roll, and ideally a urea-formaldehyde glue. It would be faster, easier, cleaner, and the glue dries harder, and can be set by heat if you want it cured and workable within a few minutes.)
Once cured, I leveled off the top so the wood is flush with the jig/form. Using that all important center point, I cut the outer edge with the router, then I cut a dado with the router so the aluminum ring can be inlaid into the one side, and then cut the inner edge. With the polyurethane glue, the wood ring needs to be cut from the form carefully, and have the back side cleaned up on a sander. This is the face ring. The other wood ring is the back ring that will not get a dado cut into it, but otherwise will get the same process/treatment.
Both halves get a bull-nose routed on their face surfaces and will eventually get glued and riveted back to back, sandwiching the aluminum in between. the back side of the wheel will get finger notches filed in by hand and smoothed, and the back side rivets will be visible. the front side rivets will be hidden by another small dado that will then be filled with forged carbon fiber (Nardi likely uses ebony, but i thought carbon would be more fitting given the rest of the car).
Before mating the 2 halves the aluminum will get fully drilled, finished and polished, then ill tape it off, fasten and rivet everything, inlay the carbon, do a final sand and seal the wood with a polyester finish.
To be continued….
#45 - Dash done
The dash is complete. And the belly pan is done. Its so close to finished!!
Ferrari 156 replica
#44 - Mirrors
made/modified some mirrors today and finished the nose portion of the car. just have to cut the glass for them.
still have to fine finish and prime the side panels, but then the bodywork should be ready for paint.
Ferrari 156 replica
#43 - windscreen scoop
I’m over the moon with how this turned out… considering I’m pulling this out of my butt as i go.
I made a plug from wood, molded it, popped a part from the mold, scribed it to fit, resin’d it in, and floated it out.
-Ferrari 156 sharknose project
#42 - windscreen scoop
today I made the plug for the windscreen scoop for the Ferrari 156 project. these were a late 1961 into 1962 change, to direct air around the windscreen rather than up and over and directly into the drivers face.
this will have a mold made of it later tonight.
#41 - Flange & windscreen
making the flange and windscreen form for my Ferrari 156 sharknose project.
I started with lots of old photos, measuring, and basically just “what looked right”. I used the wire to give me a “top line” of the windscreen then transferred that shape and measurements into a wood buck i wrapped with 2 layers of 5mm “rubber ply”. then I scribed the form to the profile of the body work, covered the body with tape, sprayed things with PVA to protects the form, used chopped strand mat to create the flange, sanded and smoothed it, did some layout before removing it, then popped it all off. After some cutting and shaping it’s ready to get the next step of having an intricate scoop formed to the front area of it. i haven’t figured out how I’ll shape that yet but I’m sure it will come to me.
the windscreen form will get cleaned up a bit, get covered with a thin layer of felt, and eventually get a sheet of 5mm acrylic therm-formed around it as the windscreen for the perfect fitted shape.
#40 - Tires
So sexy!
Proper R5 dunlop racing tires for the Ferrari 156 replica
#39 - Engine scoops
I can’t stop looking at this!! I’m in love with how this is turning out!
Ferrari 156 sharknose replica
#38 - bubble/scoop flanges
Finished my other bubble/scoop flanges for the Ferrari 156 replica. And sprayed some primer on the back half of the body checking for last small imperfections in the carbon.
#37 - flanges for bubbles
made some flanges for my bubbles today. i wasn’t sure how they would turn out but they came out awesome.
i scribed the bubbles to the profile of the body so they rested properly, i then sprayed them on both sides with PVA to protect them from getting scratched or destroyed from the resin and fiberglass. then i set them in place sealing the joint with a white silicone so i could glass around them.
laid the glass, popped them off and removed the bubbles, lots of sanding, and bang… they fit the profile of the body and the bubbles perfectly.
then i peeled the PVA layer from the plexi bubbles and they were still as good as new.
#36 - acrylic bubbles
I may have shared this type of forming before but I’ll share again since I’m working on some acrylic bubbles again.
I need some “bubbles” and acrylic scoops for my project.
I made a metal “pressure box” with a flange using some angle iron welded into a frame and plating in the bottom, then drilled and tapped in a bung for a small silicone hose. I then ran an even bead of silicone around its flange and let it dry.
I made my profile jigs for my bubble shapes from 1” thick MFD, which also got an even bead of silicone around the edge and allowed it to dry.
My plastic is clear .095 acrylic. It gets sandwiched and clamped between the pressure box and the jig with the silicone “gasket” semi-sealing it.
I put the entire thing in a cool oven and slowly raise the temperature to around 350*F on convection bake.
When I see the acrylic begin to sag slightly after about 10 minutes, I quickly remove the entire thing and slowly blow compressed air into the hose port, and maintain the pressure and desired height of the bubble as it slowly cools enough to maintain its new shape.
As the acrylic heats its gets a bit of a cloudy shade, but as it cools again it fades and goes back crystal clear.
Using polycarbonate/lexan acts different than acrylic/plexi-glass under heat and need to be brought up to temperature VERY slowly over a number of hours even, otherwise it will blister with tons of tiny moisture bubbles.
The warm plastic doesn’t really give off a smell, but the warm MDF smells a bit like toxic toast…. but not strong enough to anger the wife ?
Hope this helps somebody.
Interestingly, this is similar to how they formed the plexi noses of WW2 bombers.
#35 - red/black carbon/kevlar
some red/black carbon/kevlar. small simple parts that will remain raw carbon. I hate cutting kevlar!
1962 Ferrari 156 replica.
#34 - Making more carbon parts
Making more carbon parts today For the Ferrari 156 replica. and cutting holes for this and that.
This dash shroud will remain raw carbon without paint.
#33 - Engine sound
for those asking about the engine… please take a moment to enjoy the sound of my people… ?
its a Hayabusa 1300cc. a bit of strengthening work done to it, but no performance mods. sounds incredibly like the real Ferrari 1.5 v6 if you look it up.
#32 - Panels mounted
been awhile since i posted on the progress of my Ferrari 156 replica. today i got the body panels all mounted to the chassis and adjusted. still lots to do for small details and finishing before paint, but its starting to look like something. next will be the windscreen flange and the rear perspex pieces and flanges. and a proper aluminum prop rod for the rear body.
#31 - Engine tuning
Some fuel map tuning today for the Ferrari 156 replica on my friends dyno. 11,000rpm, 305kmh wheel speed on Chinese tires, and almost 130db behind your head…. SO intimidating!!! but the fueling is real happy now and its much scarier to drive than before!!!! ? …..its perfect!
#30 - final body weighing
I also put some bathroom scales under it tonight. The complete and final body weighing 50lbs, will put the car at the exact dry weight of the real ones in 61/62… 960lbs
with driver, it should be about 1,125lbs with 175hp
#29 - cutting up the solid body into its panels
the exciting part has begun. cutting up the solid body into its panels and now fitting each one around the chassis and back together with appropriate flanges and so on.
1961 Ferrari 156 sharknose replica in carbon.
#28 - Side scoops
Yesterday and today I made a mold and molded the side scoops, then grafted them all into the body and finished them this evening.
the entire body is hand laid carbon fiber and so far weighs 52lbs.
the next step will be to lay out each ‘panel’ and cut it into sections/panels
#27 - Front
I cut the nostrils in my Ferrari 156 replica today and made a grill screen.
ignore my center line. it was a bit off.
#26 - Detail work
Some of todays detail work on my carbon Ferrari 156 replica
#25 - Carbon body ready
My 1961 Ferrari 156 replica build…. The main carbon portion of the body is OUT OF THE MOLD!
Here are some satisfying popping and releasing sounds for your enjoyment. then it was off to the car wash to clean the PVA from the body. There are lots of small finish imperfections due to being laid up by hand of course, but nothing some sanding and light touch-up filler wont take care of before paint as would be required anyways.
I went heavy on my PVA to be sure i didn’t have any issues. The carbon is a 12oz bi-axial laid in strips The resin is vinylester.
After touch-ups and sanding it will be ready for marking out and cutting into panels, fitting around the chassis, then make flanges for the panels, and all the body detail work. MANY hours still left to go.
#24 - Body molds
and here we are!! molds off the foam plug, and the EPS remnants set to go to another friend who may have good use for them. i have no room to hold on to the EPS otherwise id save it. oh well… it did what i needed it to do.
#23 - Body molds
getting close to pulling the molds from the plug for my 1961 156 body.
#22 - Seat finished
New seat Finished and installed
#21 - Seat
I thought id share the mold and seat I made over the last few days.
The original mold was formed with spray foam from a Tillett kart seat, then the shape was modified taller and wider as well as in a few other directions and areas.
I then made an initial carbon seat from it that was okay but not perfectly what i wanted the more I looked at it. I then modified this seat and used it to create a final fiberglass mold seen here. Then today I popped this blue carbon-kevlar/chopped strand carbon seat from it using a basic wet lay-up. I’m very pleased with how it turned out and how well the mold works. the flange is large enough to attempt vacuum form some day if I wish.
I will do more for my future cars I’m sure.
This seat will be going in my streetable Ferrari 156 ‘sharknose’ replica.
#20 - Making molds
a bit of progress update on my streetable ferrari 156 replica. the chassis has been “done” for awhile and currently im working on making the moulds from the plug for its eventual carbon body. (ignore the ugliness of the mould on the tail portion. it was looking fine until i just packed on a ton of chopped strand/resin slurry just to build bulk on those tight curves).
the cards make for a great flange. i lightly wax the area, then use painters calking to build the cards into a flange i want with bracing, then after everything is waxed, sprayed with PVA, and glass is laid up, the cards and calking pop/peel off like they were never there. the flanges will get trimmed nicely before the next portions begin.
some areas (like the center of the tail) ive built up to drill and thread in an air chuck in case i need to use a blast of air or some moisture to release complex spots.
ill be doing the length of the body next in 3 parts (top and 2 sides)
#19 - Prep for molds
a little Ferrari 156 replica update.
the plug is finished and sealed. just about ready to pull some moulds from it, then the real work begins. the final body will be made of carbon.
i sealed it in red… because ya know… why not.
i post progress on instagram if people care for updates as things happen.
@howisthatstreetlegal
#18 - Cops stopped me
careful, the cops are out!
stopped me for having no license plate and because i smashed it through 2 pretty hard corners right in front of them while they had their lights on before i noticed they were there.
he says “does it handle?” i leaned in and said “hell ya it does!” and we all laughed. hahahaha
super cool guys!
im driving it on a temporary ‘in-transit’ permit for ‘testing and tuning purposes’. so all is technically legal for road use under that banner while its under construction.
for those who will ask, its a 1961 Ferrari 156 replica
#17 - side scoops
Not crazy fancy or complicated, but thought id share how im making my cars side scoops using more brains than just time and money.
#16 - Messy bodywork
So messy!!
#15 - Tools for the job
some more home made tools for the job, and some from china
#14 - Body shaping
Cut my initial shape by hand tonight with my hot wire bow and the help of a steady handed friend. Im happy with it this far, but still a ton to do.
Building a 1961 ferrari 156
#13 - Foam for mold building
Diving into the area where i have very limited personal experience. Luckily i have a few friends who are masters with sculpting, foam and mold making.
Ill be carving a body plug for the Ferrari 156 all by hand
#12 - New uprights
New uprights. Im much happier with these over my first fabbed aluminum ones. These will be much safer and still lighter as a complete brake package
#11 - Seat fitted
a photo and a video from today. over the last 2 months i changed from my initial seat design to a nicer profile closer to the original Ferrari’s shape, and changed my fuel tank location so its more protected inside the chassis. nice to hear it running again.
the new seat is also much more comfy ?
#10 - Carbon seat is finished
Finished my carbon seat finally!
6 layers of carbon and 1 layer of kevlar.
Its my first large carbon project so its not 100% flawless, but id say its 98% and im real happy with.
#9 - Seat layers
its DONE!!!! there are A LOT of layers under that shiny skin!!!! now to order up the carbon.
here is a start to finish through photos of the mold for my Ferrari 156 seat starting with a tillet go-kart seat as a beginning base shape. i hope its as comfy as i expect because otherwise i wasted many evenings. haha
#8 - Creating seat mold
i figure some might enjoy this…
i decided to make a new seat for my Ferrari 156 project. i could do aluminum like it should be, but wanted to get a bit more experience with carbon before i do the body, so im making a mold using this tillett kart seat. ill make a few changes to its size once i pop the foam out of the seat. the plan is to make it a slightly higher back, a touch wider in the ribs, and profile it a bit better for my leg position, but keep that sexy kart seat style.
either that, or just throw the seat and all in the garbage and be mad for a few days if my petroleum jelly “release agent” doesn’t work. haha
#7 - New proper exhaust packing
another sound clip as promised. new proper exhaust packing. sounds a bit quieter yet over the steel wool. actually makes me a bit sad. i really like the bark. the neighbors and cops do not. haha
i wrapped the last 6″ or so of the baffles and this is the sound i got. should be just right and may get some bark back as the packing compresses a bit more after getting some RPM run time on it.
now to take it out for a scream!
lots of people ask for more info on building this and building that. i dont have any build threads or links, but everything is documented on instagram if you use instagram. you can find all my pictures right from the beginning planning on there @howisthatstreetlegal
#6 - first day starting and test driving
a few cool pictures a friend snapped the other week from the first day starting and test driving my half finished Ferrari 156
#5 - Ferrari F1 car first start
#4 - Finished airbox
finished my airbox last night. im quite happy with it. should be on track to start the ferrari up in a few weeks.
#3 - Making headers
Making headers for the Sharknose F1. Im very happy with them and will hopefully get to hear how crazy loud they are by the end of next month. ?
#2 - Cluster mounted
got my cluster all mounted up and im real happy with it. i had to do a bit of re-fabbing to get it how i needed it. one of the finer points you dont consider when pulling a chassis design right from your butt at the beginning. haha. thats why the chassis is painted and not powder coated. ?
#1 - Thanks for the add
Thanks for the add. Ive built a few hot rods in the last few years and am currently working on a scratch built 1961 Ferrari 156 sharknose F1.
The engine is a 1300cc hayabusa (180hp). The rest is 100% from scratch and the bodywork will be done from carbon. The car will be as flawless to the look and body spec sizes as the originals that no longer exist.
@howisthatstreetlegal